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by Charlie "CUPS" Stapleton
originally published in the Caboose Kibitzer
V46, N2
It goes without saying that model railroading can be
a very exacting hobby. It all depends on how well
detailed you want your locomotives, rolling stock,
structures, scenery and/or trackwork. Some modelers are
very particular in one or two phases, while a few are
extremely rigid in all aspects of the hobby. One of my
areas happens to be trackwork and I don’t mind saying
that I enjoy it. My railroad stands to verify this
statement by the fact over 600’ of the track is hand
laid. Also, about 60 of my 157 turnouts are scratchbuilt.
Now let’s get down to the nitty-gritty.
First of all, let me get one point across - hand laid
track is not very difficult, but it is very time
consuming. Also, don’t plan on saving a lot of money
as the materials for hand laying track will run about as
much per foot as flex track. Hand laid turnouts,
however, can save you quite a bit of money.
Wood ties are pretty easy to come by, depending on
what brand you select. I started out using Kappler, then
all of a sudden they became scarce. Only by checking
every hobby store I came across during my travels was I
able to keep from running out. In selecting your ties,
make sure you use the correct size and type for the era
you are modeling. Ties have increased in size since the
days of steam, so if you are into the more modern era of
railroading it might help to check tie size with the
railroad you are modeling.
The size of rail to use is strictly up to you. I have
been using code 100, but if I had it to do over again I
would have gone with code 83. It is a little more
realistic in size and gives the point rails in hand
built turnouts a lot more flexibility. Rail can be
purchased already weathered or plain if you want to do
your own weathering. Micro Engineering weathered rail
was my choice, and saved a lot of time by not having to
paint it. It is sold in 99’ bundles of 33 three foot
lengths.
Spikes must be thin enough so as not to split the tie
when you drive them in. Micro Engineering spikes were my
choice as their small size doesn’t look like you used
ten penny nails to spike your track. If you are
fortunate enough to own or have access to a Kadee spiker,
the use it! This will also save you a considerable
amount of time.
Once you have accumulated the materials, you can
start your project. I found that laying each tie
individually was too time consuming so I manufactured a
jig. Using a ¼" by 3" by 2’ piece of
basswood for the base, I glued a ¼" square piece
along the length of one side. This serves as a backstop
as I lay the ties in the jig. Using scale 2" x
12" lumber, I glued 1¼" pieces perpendicular
to the backstop, spacing them so that a tie could be
laid between each one. This jig allows me to lay a tie
between each strip, using the backstop to keep them
even. By applying masking tape to the tops of the ties,
I can lift a two foot section of ties from the jig ready
to be glued into place.
Using a straight edge, draw a guide line on your
choice of roadbed. I chose Homa-bed for its ability to
hold spikes in place. The ties I used were not all
exactly the same length, so I made sure the ends that
were against the backstop of the jig were laid on the
guide line. If you are laying a curve, it will be
necessary to cut a spline about halfway through the tape
at every second tie. This allows the ties to "lay
into the curve." Full strength Elmer’s white glue
was my choice for gluing the ties to the roadbed. After
the glue has thoroughly dried, you must sand the tops of
the ties with a sanding block to make sure the tops of
all the ties are of uniform height.
There are several tie stains available, but I chose
"Liquitex" acrylic Mars Black. One, two ounce
tube will stain a lot of ties. I dipped a ¾" brush
in water, then dabbed it into the paint that I had
squeezed onto a coffee can lid. Then I applied it to the
ties, brushing it on the ends first, then the tops,
checking to make sure that the sides are covered as
well.
Spiking the rail to the ties is the most time
consuming part. NMRA standards call for rail to be
spiked to at least every fifth tie. This gives the rail
the solidness it needs to hold it in place. Start laying
the rail by making sure it is centered on the ties. In
other words, make sure you have an equal amount of tie
sticking out on the sides of both rails. Rail gauges
come in all configurations and you can pick the ones
that best suit you.
Start by laying two lengths of rail on the ties
separated by the rail gauges. Spiking only one
rail at a time, you can use a straight edge or "eye
ball" it as I did. This "eye ball" talent
is one of the gifts I got from my Dad. When laying the
first rail of the pair, I spiked every tenth tie, then
went back and got the fifth ones in-between. This seemed
to cut a little bit of the time. When spiking the second
rail, make sure you don’t have the rail ends directly
across from each other. I like to have about eight to
ten inches separating the rail joints. Use your NMRA
track gauge as you go to ensure the proper distance
between the rails. I have found that a pair of needle
nose chain pliers is best suited for driving the spikes.
Make sure that the spike goes straight down into the
ties so that it doesn’t interfere with the one coming
in from the other side of the rail. Of course, when
laying any rail, always make sure that there is a slight
gap at the rail joiners to allow for expansion and
contraction. I like to use a business card as it has
just the right thickness for this gap.
Soldering electrical drops to weathered rail can be a
little tricky. You must burnish the rail where the drop
is to be soldered or it won’t stick. A moto-tool with
a wire wheel will allow you to get down to the bright
metal without damaging the rail. You can paint the
solder roof brown to cover up the shininess.
With a lot of patience you can lay rail as
good or better than anyone else. Modelers who see my
railroad for the first time just shake their heads and
tell me what a glutton for punish-ment I am. But I did
it and I’m durn proud of it. And be sure to wear
those safety glasses when you are using any power
equipment or driving spikes. The spikes have, at
times, been known to pop out of the jaws of the pliers.
Till next time, there ain’t nuthin phunner than bein’
a model railroader!!
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